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You have special needs that we don't have here in California, humidity. Humidity plays such an important role in large sections of the country. In your case you need a system that can provide the cooling while dehumidifying. We slow down the fan speed from 400 cfm per ton to usually 350 cfm or 325 cfm to remove more moisture from latent cooling (wet bulb). In California we actually bump up the fan speed to 450 cfm or better because of our dry climate to get more sensible cooling (dry bulb) for higher efficiencies. In your case sizing takes on an important role, thus the load calculation, because an oversized unit will cycle on and off too quickly to remove humidity properly. Going with a variable speed can help but setting them up can be problematic to keep the humidity down and keep you cool. Some people install a separate dehumidifier that works independently or in conjunction with your A/C. Trane makes such a product, Integrated dehumidification Solution IDS. You could also have a reheat coil installed on the system that allows for the system to dehumidify and not overcool the air. Trane used to build a system like that but I never had to use it because of our low humidity in California. You should look for a contractor in the area that has been around for a while and will actually do a load calculation on the home, then ask how they handle humidity issues with the systems that they sell.

He should have charged less if he is there for something else. The price in the video is for a standalone repair. In your case our techs are taught if there is more than one repair to take the most expensive repair and any others are halved as we are there taking care of more than one problem. Lets say he finds a bad condenser fan motor and our price is $580 to replace but he also finds a bad dual run capacitor that is priced at $300. It would then sell for $150 so the total repair would be $730 and not $880.

Code is code, move the detector.

Yeah right, what is this world coming to!

Extra insulated! It's a bonus at no extra charge!

And pretty damn lazy.

We use margin and not mark up which is calculated differently. A few decades ago a friend of mine was a manager at an outdoor apparel store. A shirt they paid $1.10 for, sold for $40 when on sale, and $60 regular price. That is 36 times the cost of the shirt. But nobody batted an eye about that. My capacitor is $10 so its a bargain at only 30 times cost, plus I am going to your home and have to pay a guy that actually knows what he is doing.

Sorry you have had such bad luck. Unfortunately, mini splits use only copper aluminum. We too have had to change many coils out for mini splits. This is one reason I don't recommend them to my customers and instead go with central heating and air. Thanks for the comment.

@@baileysair I also had the air coil go on my ground floor pump from a bad soldering job. All are ducted in , no mini splits. I've paid out over $3k the last couple years plus $800 in increased hydro because the leak. I could have bought fire wood and heated for 3 yrs on that. They painted the coil on the Fujitsu with a corrosion inhibitor. If it goes again I'm done with it.

@@edwardthompson9981 On a few of the mini split coils we have replaced we were able to get a coated coil from the manufacturer and they all worked out and are so far leak free. So, good luck.

There be gold in them there hills!

Yes, it is a waste to put duct mast where it does nothing. The goal is seal air leaks, so only at and on the joints.

Glad I can help. We have found recently that many of the new inducer motors have run capacitors and they have been failing.

Zone 5b is cool dry climate. You shouldn't have too much moisture problem if it is ventilated the way you are doing it. The ac will de-humidify the space so running the ac will reduce the moisture in the space.

Depending on what we have to do I figure about $600 usually. I know some contractors will do it for less than that, usually one man companies and others that will charge closer to $900. For the $600 that includes 2 to 3 hours labor for two guys and the materials.

@@baileysair thanks for being honest. I just needed a ballpark. Thank you!

Bay area with PG&E and Bay Ren is stupid expensive. I live in MID territory with $0.22 a kw rate, PG&E is more than double. However, when natural gas reaches $3 a Therm heat pump are cheaper than even a 96% furnace to run. Due to the mild weather we have been setting 120v air handlers with no heat strips. In addition to not having to run a new 220v circuit we have been using Bosch and ADP air handler combination that gets the TECH rebate $1000 and the Federal tax credit of $2000 combined with local rebates through the local utilities and that combination actually come out less than the same type of system using a ULN furnace. And as everyone knows about me, ULN furnaces suck!

I wouldn't put one in Florida and many states down South because of the humidity. Here in the Central Valley of California it is required to put one in by code. Around here they work great.

Oh my God, what cool incidents I go to the comments because I’m getting ready to buy one I live in Jacksonville Florida. I fell on the floor and I saw your message. 😳🙄😂😂🤣🤣

When you compress insulation it looses it's R value. If you can insulate at the roof with batts and hold it up with insulation netting mesh screen would do the trick.

Thanks for the reply, I thought that compressing it might not be the way to go....I never thought of doing the roof area, I'll have to climb back up and check that out.... Thanks again👍

No, hydrogen peroxide applied to the coil will not cause the formicary corrosion, and yes it is a great sterilant and kills just about anything.

Thank you for answering and providing this very informative video. My Carrier vendor tech came to turn on my system he did not know what to do about the foul smell coming from the vents. I have been a bit frantic because after spraying the coils with hydrogen peroxide, which killed the smell, i thought some kind of chemical reaction occurred and i would need to replace my coil.i believe some kind of fumes were coming when the system was running. Very puzzling.

@@thomast9736 The fumes could come from the reaction of hydrogen peroxide with organic material on the coil that was causing the smell. We usually will mix a few teaspoons of bleach with a gallon of water and and a few table spoons of lemon juice to mask the smell. The bleach kills the mildew and mold on the coil and helps keep away the dirty sock syndrome. You could also install a UV light on the coil that will work 24hours a day killing anything that grows on the coil. This too will stop the smells.

Glad I could help.

The tech just holds a block of wood on up to the box and the other guy in the house screws the can to the block, then screws the register to the block of wood.

Back in the 90's there was a store I use to frequent called Royal Robbins. They sold adventure outdoor clothing they had designed. I knew the manger of the store and he told me that it cost them $1.10 to make and ship a shirt to their store. They sold this shirt for regular price $60 and would put it on sale for $40. So that was a 3600% mark up 36X$1.10=$40 and that was without tax added. My $9.17 capacitor should sell for $330 in the 90's and my price includes tax. With inflation I would say the customer is getting a true bargain. The problem that most people don't realize is that it costs me about $69 for the labor portion for our man to even show up at your home. This does not include the vehicle he has to drive to your home and the gas at $5 a gallon, the office people that have to answer the phones, the rent on my building, the utilities, advertising, insurance, software we have to use, equipment and tools we have to furnish, taxes we have to pay. In addition to that, we have to warranty the part we install and then still make a profit. Let me assure you we are not going to retire off selling a capacitor to a customer and if you truly think this is ripping off the customer I would suggest you take a few business classes and or try running a business yourself. By the way the third biggest type of business failure in the United States is heating and air companies and it's isn't because we are overcharging!

Theoretically it could if the insects or animal was in contact with wall their heat signature would show up. It would be interesting to test this theory out.

More than likely they had no backing on for the screw on that side of the box. We would take a small piece of sheet metal about the size of a postage stamp bent in an L shape with one side less than a half inch, the thickness of the drywall. We would then put a screw through it about the same distance from the box as the original screw hole. Then we would bow the side of the box out and slip the piece of metal in and then hang the register. I will try to make a video on how to do this and post it.

@@baileysairNice! One question, when you put the L shaped tab in, does the part of the tab you screw the 2” screws go in between the sheetrock and the vent cover, or does the tab sit above the sheetrock in the attic space?

Thank you too!

It might not hurt to open up the floor joists from the garage to see if there is insulation and if so that it is actually in contact with the drywall. If not this should be addressed. In this case it wouldn't hurt to insulate the walls and the garage door.

@baileysair thank you for the response! The home is a 2020 build with spray foam insulation so ideally the floor should have been insulated completly, right?

No, he does tape it and uses mastic.

Pray tell why you would take the time to cut blocks and nail them in when this works so well? Time is money and I venture to say that the block once cemented in place using foam is going no where, while the other side is screwed to a truss. The long sides need no backing so it is just a waste of time and material. Now, if this was a house that was not already had drywall hung, the go ahead and build a frame to support the box.

Thanks for watching. If you went to 100 companies this is how 90% of them cut in a register in an existing home.

😊

Sir, you are correct, maybe I should redo the video. Just happened to be in the attic with my son and wanted to quickly explain how to check a limit or flame roll out switch (which this is). Thanks for the comment, gives me something else to do.

I am so lost after watching this video. What are you measuring with your meter? Why? What are you doing trip it? What are you expecting to happen? What is actually happening?

@@michaelkuzmin We are measuring the low voltage. Safeties on furnaces are wired in series and use 24volts, when a safety trips it opens up and does not allow voltage across the safety. So when the tech could read 24 volts using his meter measuring across the two terminals on the safety it tells him the safety is open. If he didn't read any voltage across the terminal it would tell him that either the safety is closed or there is no 24 volts. I hope this helps.

Glad it helped

You're very welcome!

No problem 👍

Glad it was helpful!

It would be great if something like that existed, but unfortunately it doesn't.

Is there anything on the market that can see through walls? Thank u for reaponsing.

Send me an email and I will send you a spread sheet that you can just plug in the rates and size of the equipment, with the SEER my email address is baileysair@sbcglobal.net. Where do you live?

@@baileysair oh I already done so thank you....texas

@@stephenb3402 In your case the payback is never there because what you pay a kilowatt is so low. However, not knowing exactly where you live I figure you could use numbers from Bakersfield California which is 2634 which is similar climate to Texas in most locations. Plug that number in instead of 1159 that I use for Modesto.

True, but the heat pump is less expensive to run and with the rebates cost about the same to install. One of my techs came in the other day and said that he was supposed to give me a kiss from the customer. You see, we had installed a heat pump a couple of years ago for this old widower and she was comparing her bills to here neighbors with furnaces, they were hundreds less each year and she was so comfortable with here new variable speed heat pump. Just set it and forget it.

FSK stands for Foil Scrim Kraft faced insulation. If you want a non fiberglass wrap, then use the bubble wrap or Astro-Foil but follow the manufacturers instructions on how to install it as it needs an airgap in order to have any real R-value.

I don't have one, but I will make one to show you how to draw an angle and some of the tricks I use in the field to measure the house and then put into Wrightsoft, so stand by because I have two classes this week 2-14-24 & 2-15-24 for PG&E that I have to teach so I will have to squeeze it in.